The oilskin Merchant & Mills Landgate Jacket

Every once in a while you start a project that you just know is going to turn out great. This is one of those moments.

I wanted a timeless, casual jacket that I could use everyday, whether it be away in the camper, in the garden or general out and about. Something robust but that looks really cool and modern.

When I saw the Landgate jacket over on Merchant and Mills website, I knew that was the one, it was exactly what I had in mind.

When I searched online and on Instagram, I’d expected to find lots of versions of the Landgate jacket made up, but I didn’t find as many as I thought. I think it may be a pattern that has gone a little under the radar.

It’s actually a unisex pattern, the only difference that I can see is that you add a little length to the body for the male version, other than that it’s exactly the same.

I used the PDF pattern (I find the cutting and taping of patterns quite therapeutic) and my fabric of choice was the Merchant and Mills Organic oilskin in conker which is absolutely beautiful.

Now the cutting out process was very time consuming (and back breaking). I didn’t want to fold the fabric in half (to cut out on the fold) to avoid a centre crease, so instead I laid the fabric out as a single layer on the floor, and traced round the pattern pieces with chalk, flipping it over where it was a pattern piece that is cut on the fold (I totally forgot to take a picture of the process).

Another important point is that pins will leave puncture holes, so I used chalk to trace and then just cut it out, I didnt attach the pattern to the fabric.

Make sure you mark each pattern piece with what is the wrong side of the fabric, as this can be difficult to identify in the moment. I just marked by writing “WS” with my nail on the wrong side (it marks really easily).

The sewing process wasn’t that difficult for this pattern as its lots of “straightish” seams with its boxy style. The most difficult was probably attaching the hood/neck to the jacket, although I made things a little harder on myself as I wanted to use as many french seams as I could as I wasn’t lining it. The side seams, hood, neck, arm and shoulder seams are all french, there were a few seams that I couldn’t french as I wasn’t sure how it was all coming together. Next time, now I’m more familiar with the Landgate jacket pattern, I may be able to do the majority as french..

I also wanted to make it a bit more feminine on the inside, so I decided to use Liberty of London scraps to edge the drawstring casing and the hood. I also added binding to one of straight seams that I hadn’t frenched.

There are 2 versions of pockets, a side seam version and a patch version. I went for the patch but used press-studs rather than buttons. Next time I may do both as I do miss a side seam pocket when I don’t have one (or even use the pocket from the Closet Core Kelly anorak as that’s one amazing pocket).

All in all I’d say this took me about 10 hours to sew, but it was totally worth it as I absolutely love it. I adore how the fabric has already aged just through the sewing process and it matches perfectly with my Buckthorne Tote bag that I recently made.

Although the fabric is heavy and a little unforgiving if you make mistakes, it’s so wonderful to sew. I used a walking foot throughout and this made it very easy apart from where I had the odd bulky seam on seam. In these areas I just used the hand wheel to slowly stitch through and I eventually got there. I do think it would have been much more difficult without a walking foot as when I used the zipper foot for the zip installation it was much stiffer to move through the feed dogs.

You must use a jeans needle and must not use an iron. You simply need to finger press (it finger presses like a dream).

Now it was totally by accident, but I found that the jacket is a perfect match with my Hunter wellies, perfect music festival attire! Or I guess its also perfect for gardening if there is no festival in sight.

I’ll finish by saying that this Landgate jacket is my favourite make in a long, long time. It looks and feels like something that you would buy at a high end store (yep, blowing my own trumpet here), but I’ve been able to use the perfect fabric, colour and add my own personal touches. I will definitely be making more of these, maybe even a canvas or flannel one, maybe even a sweatshirt. Watch this space.